9-3-16 (HCR - North Forty)

Love Slave - 5.11c - Bolt 1 - 2 hard move, rest of climb pumpy - No Send

Sonny Jim - 5.11a - Heady middle sequence, top slab cool - On Site Flash

Lavender Eye - 5.12a - Easy lower section, didn’t finish roof pull - No Send

First Normal Form - 5.10a - Easy lower section, Top section has cool lip - On Site Flash

Green Goblin - 5.8 - It’s a 5.8..good warmup, interesting top - On Site Flash

Ace in the hole - 5.9 - Cool moves, didn’t have enough draws, ran it out to the finish - On Site Flash

Trapeze Artist - 5.12b - easy first section, Crazy dyno after the lip, didn’t get any further than that - No send

Fat Hand - 5.12a - Really sustained route, not necessarily hard, just pumpy - No clean send


9-4-16 (HCR - The Eastside)

Aphrodite - 5.8 - Felt like the route had been ran a bunch, polished holds - On Site Flash

Acree Prime - 5.7 - Great warmup route - On Site Flash

Caesar’s Tossed Salad - 5.10c - A long route for me (75ft) amazing rest ledge that you can literally sit down on, finish has small holds and a lip - On Site Flash

Horseshoes and Hand Grenades - 5.11a - Amazing route, felt easier than Crimp Scampi (5.10d), long route, Top section significantly easier than lower section - On Site Flash


I may have missed some routes, but these are the ones that stood out in memory, also take into account that I climbed some of these multiple times for cleaning, and was belaying multiple climbers all day as well..Not just my own personal climb fest. An amazing trip overall and I'm super happy that I was able to onsite some 5.11s making this trip my best trip yet (Sending wise). The 5.12s I worked on were mostly overhung and the only issue I had with them were that I got really pumped and was unable to hold on..I'm eager to try some tech-y crimpy 5.12s in the future and see how I fare. Overall an Amazing Trip and Pics to come soon!!

 early morning in camp

early morning in camp

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