Today was the first day of my travels along the way to Wyoming. I’m writing this in the back of my 1998 Ford Bronco laid up in a sleeping bag. I’m just slightly too tall to fit in the back diagonally and it makes for some interesting positions to wake up to in the middle of the night. I rolled in last night around 3am Dallas time after some intense driving in the high winds on the last few hours of the trip. I still haven’t perfected the fung-shway or however you spell it of situating the back area with all my gear while I sleep. It’s like a Jenga tower in here kind of haha.
I woke up today around 7:45 just before my alarm went off. I drove into Hueco like i’ve done so many times and met my guide Brandon at the gates. Since it’s just me in his guided tour these next couple of days, I asked him if he had any things he was projecting that we could hop on today. He told me about Crimping Christ (v10) and we set off to go warm up on some nice V2’s and 3’s. We did some cool 2’s and a rad V4 to the left of Hector in a Blender and then worked our way up to Crimping Christ. Brandon showed me the beta on it and I felt the holds, which were incredibly sharp by the way. I gave it a few burns, but only making it to the first hold each time. Brandon was able to send however and it started our day off with some hype that kept spirits high thru the day. We moved on and got a cool slope-y V5 along the way to next area we were headed to.
Finally Brandon brought me to a V8 called “J-Lo” like the singer I assume. It was an awesome route to say the least; Starts on a low jug rail, with feet starting with a low left and a heel hooked right that kinda cams into the wall. You slap into a sloper hueco with the right hand and gaston a left slope-y thing. The next move is a high right toe onto a small horn and putting your knee into the sloper hueco your right hand is in. Then you slap a left hand onto a small peanut like hold and slowly move your right hand up to a very small crimp. The crux is letting the knee bar out and controlling the barn-door long enough to throw your left hand up to a SUPER jug. I was able to send this after an hour-ish of projecting, which is my first V8 send ever.
After that send we took it easy, I think I send one more V2 and Brandon got a V6 and then we hiked out to the cars. I’m pretty zapped from the lack of sleep last night and INCREDIBLY hungry so I finish my night off with a Burrito and some Oreos while typing this up.
It’s only my first day on this trip of mine, but I can’t think of a better way to start it off than with my best day of climbing yet probably. I hope you continue to read about my days as I continue on my travels, please email... I get lonely.