Today was dooooooopee. Spend most the day climbing at Sailing hawks again, and even met some cool dudes out there today. It was my goal to send the V7 “Sunday Stroll” that had ripped a hole in my finger on Tuesday. I also wanted to sample a few other things and try a hard V5 that I didn’t know the beta for called “Three Finger”. 

The first climb I walked up to today was in fact “3 Finger” the V5 thing I hadn’t ever been able to figure out, but I also hadn’t put too much effort into working the move or figuring it out. While I set my pads up for the route’s fall zones 2 guys walked up and said they were also going to work on Three Finger. One of the guys, Ben, had some good beta for the route. Apparently the whole thing hinges on a dank heel hook, hand match, type thing. After I figured that out it only took 1-2 tries to finish it off. Even though it only goes at V5 I was quite satisfied to take down a the classic Sailing Hawks V5. 

 Eric on holding the Right crimp with the Knee bar, getting ready to fire up to the lip!

Eric on holding the Right crimp with the Knee bar, getting ready to fire up to the lip!

After that Ben said one of his friends Eric was going to come out, and that he also wanted to project “Sunday Stroll” which was a pretty great coincidence. We padded up the bottom and I started to feel the moves again individually. When Eric walked up, he shoed up, and was actually able to get it on his first try today. Super impressive, and kind of intimidating to see hahah. It took me quite a bit longer than 1 attempt, but I too was able to send the route. I’ll spew some of the route’s beta here as well; It starts on two side-pull holds on the bottom left of the boulder and then goes up left hand to a 2 finger pocket. You then throw a right hand to a small crimp and you walk your feet over to the right side and drop knee the side of the boulder which allows you to smoothly bring your right hand up to another crimp about as small and as bad as the first one. You then get a high left foot up and put a higher right drop knee on the side and go up left hand to a knobby thing that you can make into a crimp. This is where the climb “turns on” for me, you go up right hand again to yet ANOTHER small crimp and then you get a super duper high right foot and twist your leg into the side of the boulder and it turns into a very nice drop knee. The drop knee allows you to bump the right hand up to a broken hold that is only really positive on the pointer and half of the tip of the middle finger, but just good enough to hold onto. After that the left hand goes out to a very small pocket-y hold and then finally you slap the top out and it’s all over! It’s not the hardest V7 i’ve ever done, but it was certainly rewarding to send this thing after it took a chunk out of me. 

After Sunday Stroll we projected a few different things, a V9 called “Global Warming” and a V8 called “Meat head” were the two that stood out to me. Oddly enough the V9 felt more doable for me, mainly because it fits my style of climbing well. The V8 is this powerful roof climb that is still proving to be my anti style, I was only able to pull the first move. Overall I had a pretty rewarding day, I’m glad to take down my “Durango Projects” on this trip and I have some new projects to grab next time i’m here. Tomorrow grandpa and I plan on making a home-made hang board and I’ll probably finally get a haircut too.

 Eric on "Meat Head" V8

Eric on "Meat Head" V8

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