Acceptable Risk

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Acceptable Risk

I’ve gone on about 25 trips so far in 2016, most of them being climbing trips, a few involving less climbing than I would’ve liked but everyone needs breaks sometimes. Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous sport, and we minimize all the risks we can but you can never take away 100% of the risk, and who would want to anyways. Part of the allure of rock climbing is the danger to me, the adrenaline rush. I never used to be the adrenaline rush guy, and I still don’t like roller coasters. But I love the feeling you get from managing the risk or relying on your skill and knowledge to navigate yourself safely through a scenario. 

    Climbing is relatively new to my life being that I started only 2 years ago and has become a huge piece of my everyday routine. I am only 21 years old and most of my friends are in University far from where we all grew up, but I’ve stayed home and gone to community college at night and worked full time for about 4 years now. I went to visit one of my friends who goes to school at Texas Tech in Lubbock, TX because I’ve been telling her since forever I’d come up and visit. A little background on my friend, She is in a sorority and lives with 5 other girls in a house near their school, all of which are also in sororities. I’ve never visited a University other than like SMU in Dallas ever, so I really had no idea what to expect and I didn’t really expect much..Lubbock is kind of a boring town in the middle of nowhere, Texas. I quickly got introduced to all the girls in the house and their cute dogs that get insane amounts of love (I wish I could be a dog in a sorority house). One of my favorite things to do with people is hear their stories, because it gives you such a good judgement of character of a person and they don’t even realize. The girls start retelling stories of crazy drunken nights, of Arrests, being detained, being so drunk they don’t remember the night, of horrible men, pretty much everything you can think of. And I was in awe at the insane crazy lifestyle they live, it really seemed out of this world to me I couldn’t even believe it. I like to think that I live a really exciting life. I go out every weekend and physically exert myself for 6-8hrs usually sometimes longer for the thing I love to do. Most of the time I’m doing things that if I hadn’t known and been trained to do them properly I could die. And people that are trained and have been doing these things for years still die. I think it’s insane hahah. I have even free solo’d 5.7s in Austin (nothing insane and I had a Personal Anchor System the whole time) but still I like to think I live a crazy life. But here I am sitting in a sorority girl’s room awe struck at the crazy life she lives. 

    Climbers have a term we use called “Acceptable Risk” and it basically means the risk you’re willing to put yourself in to enjoy yourself or complete a climb. Acceptable risk doesn’t just apply to climbing though, everyone makes choices in their life of the risks they’re willing to take. I’ll give an example: Last week in Horseshoe I was warming up on a 5.10a about 50ft, and had like 9 bolts with 2 anchors (11 quick-draws total). However being that it was a warm up route and me wanting to get on with my day I didn’t count the bolts or read the guide book and I only took up 10 “draws”. When I got to the 9th bolt on the climb I realized that I only had 1 draw and I still had 2 anchors to clip at the top. Between the 9th bolt and the 2 anchors there’s about a 10 foot section and below me (My last clip) probably another 6-10 feet. A made a decision to unclip the 9th bolt and “Run it out” to the finish. This means that had I fallen close to the Anchors of the climb I could have taken a roughly 20 foot fall, potentially breaking ankles, toes or worse if I landed incorrectly. But I recognized the risk in my action, and deemed it acceptable (All of this happening in about 10 seconds on the wall). Some people might hear taking a 20 foot fall and risking breaking bones to be absolutely insane, but for me it’s an acceptable risk. I trusted that I had the strength to finish the final 10 feet of the climb and so I went for it. The same can be said for my reaction to hearing the drunken nights from these sorority girls. It’s absolutely insane to me that these women are going out and drinking and driving, or getting picked up for drinking under the age and getting ticketed. But if you just analyze a little further, to them it isn’t that insane i’m sure. It all falls into the acceptable risk category. I just find it super unique that for someone like myself who considers what I do pretty crazy sometimes that I can’t fathom doing some of the things these young women do. But on the other side me saying that i’ve “free solo’d” a 5.7 (Meaning I had no rope to catch me if I fell) people would tell you that I’m an idiot for. Just remember that next time you hear someone telling you an Insane story that you can’t believe, everyone’s comfort levels are different!

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Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Send List

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Horseshoe Canyon Ranch Send List

9-3-16 (HCR - North Forty)

Love Slave - 5.11c - Bolt 1 - 2 hard move, rest of climb pumpy - No Send

Sonny Jim - 5.11a - Heady middle sequence, top slab cool - On Site Flash

Lavender Eye - 5.12a - Easy lower section, didn’t finish roof pull - No Send

First Normal Form - 5.10a - Easy lower section, Top section has cool lip - On Site Flash

Green Goblin - 5.8 - It’s a 5.8..good warmup, interesting top - On Site Flash

Ace in the hole - 5.9 - Cool moves, didn’t have enough draws, ran it out to the finish - On Site Flash

Trapeze Artist - 5.12b - easy first section, Crazy dyno after the lip, didn’t get any further than that - No send

Fat Hand - 5.12a - Really sustained route, not necessarily hard, just pumpy - No clean send


9-4-16 (HCR - The Eastside)

Aphrodite - 5.8 - Felt like the route had been ran a bunch, polished holds - On Site Flash

Acree Prime - 5.7 - Great warmup route - On Site Flash

Caesar’s Tossed Salad - 5.10c - A long route for me (75ft) amazing rest ledge that you can literally sit down on, finish has small holds and a lip - On Site Flash

Horseshoes and Hand Grenades - 5.11a - Amazing route, felt easier than Crimp Scampi (5.10d), long route, Top section significantly easier than lower section - On Site Flash


I may have missed some routes, but these are the ones that stood out in memory, also take into account that I climbed some of these multiple times for cleaning, and was belaying multiple climbers all day as well..Not just my own personal climb fest. An amazing trip overall and I'm super happy that I was able to onsite some 5.11s making this trip my best trip yet (Sending wise). The 5.12s I worked on were mostly overhung and the only issue I had with them were that I got really pumped and was unable to hold on..I'm eager to try some tech-y crimpy 5.12s in the future and see how I fare. Overall an Amazing Trip and Pics to come soon!!

early morning in camp

early morning in camp

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Trent's California Trip

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Trent's California Trip

It's a crazy coincidence that Chris and I are both in California within 2 weeks of each other. I’ve been to California before when I was younger to San Francisco and Santa Cruz, but this was long before I started Climbing. I don’t know how it is for other climbers, but California is like my dream location for climbing. It’s really my ideal place for everything, You can Snowboard in the winter, Surf and Climbing in the summer...it’s my dream land. Anyways We flew into San Diego around 4pm and grabbed dinner at this cool little Asian place called East Village Asian Diner. On the walk in I see Thunder Cat action figures in the window and they had Anime playing on the TV, so I already knew the place would be awesome. Something always amazing about leaving Texas is the temperature difference compared to literally ANYWHERE else. It’s a cool 70 degrees when the sun sets and I have to wear a jacket since I'm used to a climate similar to Hell. We walked down the street and the city of Del Mar had a vintage car meet. Super cool way to end the first night for sure. 

One of my dad’s friends is a Navy Chaplain and stationed on the Coronado Naval base, and he gets access to the entire base, Including the Navy SEAL section. So we met up with him at Panera in Coronado and he goes over what we’re doing for the day. We start on the larger of the bases and go past 2 Gigantic air craft carriers, 1 of which is under refitting and covered in white plastic. Drove past tons of black hawk helicopters and gigantic cargo planes.

After that we head to the way smaller SEAL training base. It’s pretty much an entry gate, a gate to the beach/ocean, and a big green field where we saw about 50ish young men in their 4th week in SEAL Training..Lets rewind a little bit, as a climber I have a fairly decent upper body strength since I pull my body weight up large walls for a hobby, so I can do a decent amount of pull ups as a result of that. So I was thinking about challenging these men to a pull up competition...Fast forward again, we’re driving by the field where all the guys are training and I quickly realize that these dudes' job is literally to work out ALL day while under extreme stress, most of them my age. Made me super appreciative to our United States armed forces for the amount of training and stress that these guys go through so they can protect us against any harm that would come our way. Also I spotted the group of them who were on pull-ups and it’s about 1pm at this point and I also realized that they’ve probably been working out since 6am and they were not doing these pull-ups slowly. So I reconsidered my challenge pretty quickly....Also they don’t really appreciate you interrupting the Navy SEALs. Over all SUPER cool day, saw some really cool stuff and got some cool Navy gear. 

 

Saturday I got a pretty late start; left the Hotel at 10ish and got some breakfast at a local place, and headed into San Diego to check out the Mesa Rim climbing gym. I’ve only climbed at a few gyms (Dallas, Tx & Durango, CO). Dallas, being my home gym, we are 4 hours from the nearest outdoor rock, so our setting is DRASTICALLY different from climbing gyms that are less than an hour from real rock. That being said Mesa Rim is incredible, 50-70 foot walls, excellent routes, and an overall great gym. I’ll go into real quick what I consider a great route; I like on a 5.11 to have a little bit of difficulty but not impossible, I like it to have technical moves with high feet, rather than huge reach moves with really no skill involved. I prefer technique to sheer brute strength. I didn’t walk in with a climb partner but the gym called overhead “If anyone needs a belay partner please come to the front desk” within like 10 minutes of me being there (probably one of the cooler features i’ve seen in a gym). The guy was super cool, and was even from Lubbock, Texas. We warmed up on a 5.8, hopped on a few 5.11s, two 5.12s and even got on a 5.13 that was super awesome. It was also awesome training for my 12 hour comp on the 27th since the walls are 70ft tall, the pump was real! Got a sick Nalgene from the gym too. 

 

I woke up on Sunday and started packing my bag for Joshua Tree; 70m rope, harness, quick draws, runners, chalk bag, and I grab for my shoes in the bottom of the bag and they’re not in there. A quick panic sesh led to realizing that I had left my only pair of climbing shoes at the climbing gym from Saturday. This is also happening at 6am because we were leaving early to J-Tree so we could get there early, so that plan was out the window. Luckily for me the gym still had them so we scooped them at around 9am and headed to Joshua Tree. If you have no previous knowledge about Joshua Tree, it’s basically a trad climbing paradise (Traditional Climbing). Sadly I only own sport climbing gear, and the ratio of Trad to Sport climbs in Joshua tree is about 10 to 1. A few days before I bought the Joshua Tree guide book at REI and I thought that would be sufficient, but I really didn’t grasp how large the entire park is. If you’ve ever been to Hueco Tanks in Texas it’s basically that park but 10 times bigger. All the rocks look the same, they’re these big bulbous brown rolling mountains, and the only way I was able to distinguish the areas that we went to was where the mountain in the background was. The guide book I purchased was less than amazing, and made it super hard to figure out where climbs were located and even finding a Sport route in the book was difficult. Made for a very stressful time, being surrounded by amazing trad climbs, but looking for small silver bolts in a sea of brown rock. The climbs I actually got on seemed like someone was bored and threw up random bolts into a climb.. some didn’t even have anchors and I had to rappel off the bolt. Regardless of how stressful it was to find climbs, I was with my family, in a beautiful place, on a vacation in California..my life isn’t bad. At the end of the day I learned the meaning of “Sometimes you win, Sometimes you learn.” I know next time I’m in Joshua Tree it’ll be with a gigantic trad rack slung across my chest, blazing routes all day. 

 

I think my favorite part of the trip has been the general attitude of California. Things just don’t seem so rushed here. Stuff just gets done, people enjoy life, and it’s just generally stress free. I spent Monday sitting in a Starbucks writing this post and watching the cars and bikers go by. It’s nice to just sit and do nothing sometimes and just watch people go about their days. It was a nice break from the constant training i’ve been doing for the last 2 months (Though I did train in the gym here, in case my climb partner reads this). I can’t wait for the next time i’m in California, I hope it’s not too long.

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Chris' Trip to California

By: Christopher Hernandez  

      So I just got back from a little 6 day trip out west with my friend Paul (@thatniggapaul on Instagram if you would like to check out his stuff) for his 21st birthday. He had never been out to California before but always wanted to go so I thought it would be cool to rent a car and just go everywhere, like a nice California sampler. I mean 6 days isn't very long to see all it has to offer, but we managed pretty well. This will also be a good post to show everyone that traveling, especially inside the same country, doesn't have to be expensive or long. I always find people asking me, "How do you afford to do this stuff? How can you pay bills and everything and still manage to make all these trips?". I'll show you.

      Well first off you have to sort of plan ahead. I know ideally you want to live spontaneously and just enjoy every thing you come across but a little bit of structure will save you a lot of money. By structure I just really mean get an idea of everything you want to see and plan a route. The last thing you want is to get to your destination then realize you want to see something thats 5 hours out of the way. Also try to get yourself into a sort of minimalist mindset, you don't need everything you think you need. You need food, water, and shelter. Everything else is extra, that mentality alone will save tons on travel expenses. You've got to remember that us humans are much hardier than we think. People can live in the wild and go days without food; we are incredibly sturdy organisms. I'm not saying you need to live so bare that you eat once a day, but you don't need to spend $5 or $10 on every meal you eat. And lastly, if you really want to save on travel expenses, skip the hotel or motel or whatever. Just sleep in the car or outside. You'll survive without that shower and bed, I promise. Park your car in a National Park, or a residential area if you're in a city, or even a Wal Mart parking lot and you're safe to sleep the night away. And you can shower at most Travel Centers and big travel gas stations like Love's, Flying J, Pilot, and Travel America for like $10-13. They're everywhere when you're traveling on interstate highways. 

      Alright no more money saving tips, now the fun stuff. So for my little California Sampler, I wanted to take Paul to less city-oriented stuff and more outdoorsy type stuff, because honestly I don't even know what to do in the city. Just not my thing. My list was: Grand Canyon in Arizona, La Jolla Cove in San Diego, Big Sur on the coast of California, San Franciso/Golden Gate Bridge, and Yosemite National Park. Paul's list was: Universal Studios in LA, some beaches, Grand Canyon, and pretty much whatever I thought was best. He kept an open mind which was great. So here's where that planning stuff kicks in, you have all these destinations so now you just gotta link them up and keep your trip lined up accordingly. La Jolla Cove is in southern Cali, Universal in LA, Big Sur between LA and San Fran, and Yosemite sits East of San Fran. So we started south in San Diego, went north through LA and San Fran, then east through Yosemite and on home. Easy. 

      Well first was actually the Grand Canyon. If you've never seen it and you're on your way to California you might as well its on the way! We got to the GC in the middle of the night and got to see all the crazy stars, man what a beauty. Never get those views in the city. Slept in the car and woke up early morning to check out all the views. The Grand Canyon is enormous, and you definitely need more than a day to really get the experience, but all we had was a day so we just got the most views we could get before we had to head to San Diego.

      The next day we hit La Jolla Cove in San Diego, the place was packed with tourists and Sea Lions. Smelled horrible but I can't complain, the Sea Lions were a really cool part of the visit. Except for the one that stranded Paul and I outside an arch coming off the beach. He punked us out pretty bad. So we get down to the beach and there's a cool archway to our left leading out to the ocean with rocks we can walk across, so we do. We get out of the archway and we're looking at the cool view of the rocky beach and all the Sea Lions nesting and bathing and what not, and we realize there's one right next to us flopping up on the rocks were standing on. So immediately we're like "oh shit they bite we better stay back" and he plops up right on the rock blocking our way back to the beach. Well fuck man now we're stuck out here. I walk over to the Sea Lion to see if I can sneak past the side of him out of the cave and he starts barking at me. So we're trapped and Paul doesn't want to swim out and around the outcropping of rocks with his phone on him. Our only chance was to climb the arch and get over the top of it to get back down to the beach. Thank you Trent for getting us into rock climbing, I think we would've been stuck there all day. Also luckily the arch wasn't very tall, probably only 15 feet high. I mean it would have definitely hurt to fall, and maybe broken a few things, but we would've survived. I'd say it was about a V1 boulder problem with all the mossy holds and our bare feet. 

      Next on the agenda was Universal Studios and LA. I kind of consider LA sort of the Mecca of California, "where dreams come true" and all that stuff. Traffic sucks though. Universal Studios was really cool, basically for us the attraction was Harry Potter World, which was pretty amazing actually. Love me some Harry Potter. Besides that just a big tourist thing, lot of foreign people which is always cool though. Never get to hear so many languages on a normal day in Texas that's for sure. 

      Now finally we were heading to Big Sur, I think my favorite place in California. The coastal views on Highway 1 are just insane. Narrow winding roads, steep cliffs, low hanging clouds, and a ridiculous view of the never-ending ocean. That place really makes you feel small and insignificant, but at the same time so inspired to do anything. Nature can do that to you. Paul and I got in some good little hikes/climbs; one amazing one down to a rocky beach. We spent almost an entire day just driving up that coast and playing in the fog. 

      Got to San Francisco that night just in time to check into our Airbnb. Slept long that night, and got up next morning for tea with our host then brunch Downtown. Then we aimed for Golden Gate Park to get in some good views of the bridge. Spent most of our time on Baker Beach, which offers breathtaking views of the bridge and the water's not too cold either. Down at the end of the beach are some nice boulders and other rocky stuff you can climb around on and get splashed by the incoming tide. 

      Last on the list was a really quick visit to Yosemite National Park. Yosemite is a huge National Park, you need at least a week, maybe two, to really get the full experience. I mean this place is crazy, there's so much to offer. However we only had a couple hours...we sort of ran out of time. But I had to at least show Paul a little teaser of what they have to offer. We got to Yosemite around 6 or 7 at night, only an hour or two before dark. I figured Yosemite Falls would be a fun quick hike. Got to the base of the falls as the sun was setting and took a quick, cold, dip into the little pool at the base of the falls. Really brisk, but really worth the swim. By the time we were in the water night was already on us so not being able to see sort of freaked me out. But totally still worth it, things that bring the greatest fear always bring the greatest joy (Kerouac). After that we headed on the long drive home, a great trip came to an end. I'll see ya later California, hopefully soon.  

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How Much Does Rock Climbing Cost

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How Much Does Rock Climbing Cost

How much does Rock Climbing cost?

 

Other than finger skin, sore limbs, and ruined toes, Rock climbing costs DOLLARS..yes it is very much not a free sport. So I thought I’d list out all the gear I current own and how much each piece cost with links to amazon where you can also purchase the gear!

So here we go: 

My first pieces of gear were my harness and shoes: 

I have a Mammut Ophir 3 Slide Harness - $54.95

http://www.backcountry.com/mammut-ophir-3-slide-harness-mens

I’ve never had a different harness, so I can’t really compare to other ones..But it works, It gets a little uncomfortable when I’m belaying for a long time or hanging on a route for a while, but besides that, it’s light, stream lined, and makes me feel safe. 


 

I have only ever owned La Sportiva climbing shoes, and I have to say I’ve tried on other shoes and I love me some La Sportiva. I’ve owned 5 Pairs of La Sportivas, 2 of which were the same model (La Sportiva Testarossa) 

La Sportiva Testarossa - $175.00

https://www.amazon.com/Sportiva-Testarossa-Vibram-Climbing-Yellow/dp/B0002XLE46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471381127&sr=8-1&keywords=la+sportiva+testarossa

The shoes are VERY tight, as they should be, and have amazing toe grip. Though I went thru 2 pairs of these shoes in about a year, I climb a lot outside and a lot just in general, so I feel like it was just natural wear, not that the shoes were bad. 


La Sportiva Tarantulace - $80.00

https://www.amazon.com/Sportiva-Tarantulace-Climbing-Shoe-Kiwi/dp/B005DLQBA4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1471381266&sr=8-2&keywords=la+sportiva+tarantulace

These were my first pair of climbing shoes, they’re just slightly too big for my foot so these were not my climbing shoes for very long...However they’re extremely comfy as far as climbing shoes go, and the lace up allows you to synch these things down


La Sportiva Miura - $175.00

https://www.amazon.com/Sportiva-Miura-VS-Shoe-Yellow/dp/B0012RCZC6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1471381388&sr=8-2&keywords=la+sportiva+miura

These are my current climbing shoes and my favorite BY FAR. They have a slight downturn, but not as tight as the Testarossa, they’re a little wider than the testarossa as well which makes them more comfortable to wear for longer periods. Outdoors wise I can stay in them longer, which allows me to climb for longer. Overall I love these shoes. 


When you make the jump from gym climbing to outdoor climbing two pieces of gear allow you do climb at almost 60-70% of all climbing outdoors: Rope and Quick Draws.

70m Mammut Serenity Dry rope - $240.00

I have a 70m Mammut Serenity Dry rope. I opted for the 70 meter because my whole “mantra” with rock climbing outside is that I want to climb anything I think is cool looking..wether it be 20 feet or 2000 feet. 

https://www.amazon.com/Mammut-Serenity-Dry-Climbing-Rope/dp/B00SAHFTPQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471381781&sr=8-1&keywords=Mammut+Serenity+Dry+Climbing+Rope


Black Diamond Positron Quickdraw - 12cm - $101.70

I have two sets of quick draws, both black diamond..I try to stick to known brands that are universally trusted and Black Diamond is pretty universally trusted in the industry. 

I just recently got these..Mainly because they look pretty awesome (Black and Gold) They work like all quick draws and I haven’t had any issues with the gates or runners for the year I’ve owned them. 

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Positron-Quickdraw-12cm/dp/B019NULQ8W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1471381927&sr=8-5&keywords=BLACK+DIAMOND+POSITRON+QUICKDRAW


Black Diamond PosiWire Quickpack, 12cm, Ink Blue/Positron - $65.00

These were my first pair of quick draws, they’re a little loose on the runner (Not sure if it’s just because of how much i’ve used them or not). The gates are in fine condition after about 2 years, no problems so far. 

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-PosiWire-Quickpack-Positron/dp/B00LU18J6A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471381927&sr=8-1&keywords=BLACK+DIAMOND+POSITRON+QUICKDRAW


 

So all in all, I have spent about $891.65 in a span of two years..Now in one big purchase of all the gear it can seem like a lot..but If you bought 1 piece of gear a week that’s roughly $8.60 a week. This is the bare minimum of all the gear I currently own for rock climbing, and it's MAINLY all you will need to climb at a majority of areas. I'll prob do a full gear list later on in the year as Fall comes around.

We split up big purchases for gear into a piece a week usually (Like a quick draw, a runner, or trad piece) which can really minimize the blow from buying it all at once. I will admit I have not done the weekly plan yet, because I space out my purchases with several months in between. Luckily a lot of climbing gear holds your life it it’s hands, so the companies who make it try and make the gear last as long as physically possible. Long story short, you won’t be spending much money on replacing gear.

Mario "Racking Up" for some Trad at Hueco Tanks. A small fraction of Mario's gear in a heap on the ground.

Mario "Racking Up" for some Trad at Hueco Tanks. A small fraction of Mario's gear in a heap on the ground.

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SunRiser Colorado Trip - A Retrospection

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SunRiser Colorado Trip - A Retrospection

      Well its a bit late, but here's my perspective on our trip to Colorado in July. More of a personal description rather than a chronological re-telling, Trent already covered that, thanks homie.

      Let's start with the drive; of course there's pretty mountains and boulder things and yada-yada -- nice views, we all know its gorgeous. At least better than most of what Texas has to offer, although thats half the drive. But no I'll talk more about two tired friends sharing a Ford Focus for twelve hours through the night. Well I'm not sure how you guys like to stay awake on road trips but Trent and I will switch off driving and resting and in between we alternate music and comedy skits; our favorites being Louis C.K., Tom Segura, Hannibal Burress, Steve Ranazzisi, and Chad Daniels. At least I think that's all of them. I don't know about you guys but some good laughs will always keep me awake and driving, along with cruise control man that invention is awesome. Never had it in any of my old cars its a blessing. 

      We finally got to Durango, CO and that little town is so rad. I love that place. And people say we're cowboys in Texas, man I saw more ten gallon hats and cowboy boots than I think I've ever seen. Along with a good abundance of crazy looking youths and young adults; creativity and imagination is definitely alive in Durango. So many interesting looking people, and overall super friendly which is always nice when traveling. Never get that in big cities, flashy looks usually equate to inflated egos and no one likes a big head. 

      Then we got to the cabin and holy shit....well let me start by saying I've never stayed in a cabin in my life so this was a luxury I've never had while traveling, I usually sleep outside or in a vehicle. But man this cabin was phenomenal. Set up with three rooms, a perfectly decorated living space, a kitchen & shower, and a fireplace. We had everything we needed, I never wanted to leave. And set up right in La Plata Canyon surrounded by mountains and a small river...man talk about perfect. And to top that we came in on a rainy day with lots of fog, so the valley and mountaintops were bathed in a nice soft rolling mist....just mesmerizing. I took tons of photos (like 200 on the whole trip) with my old Canon film camera, but after returning to Dallas I lost all 6 rolls of film I had! I wish I had pictures to upload with this post, but none yet...maybe one of these days my film will turn up. Definitely need to get me a digital camera soon. 

      So after meeting Denis and Krista (friends of Trent's and now mine I think) we all got comfortable and ready for Colorado adventures. Day 1 was mostly light, we didn't want to go crazy after that drive so we climbed at the local gym and cooked dinner back at the cabin. I'm a vegetarian by the way, but I also love to cook so I made most of the food at the cabin. We didn't cook as much as I would have liked but its okay, I get to do it everyday back home so this was a nice break. 

      Day 2 was bouldering! Not sure if you guys know but I'm not the best climber, I'm decent at best (boulder v3's and 4's and 5.10ish on the ropes) but its okay cause its still loads of fun and thats all I care about. But man the grading up in Colorado was crazy hard. These Coloradans are some burly dudes and dudettes. I'm probably just wimpy and I'm cool with that. But still its always enjoyable to just sit back and watch the climbs and enjoy the weather and views, so no complaints from me. If anything it just means I gotta climb harder and get better for the next trip. After we got back to the cabin Trent and I took a little hike up the road to a dinky little waterfall. We followed the trail back a mile or so along the running water and found some peace in the wild. There's just something about little places like that. Invading the senses like an old friend coming to visit; the soft bellow of the water, the gentle frigid air, the songs of the birds. A sweet symphony, man I love that stuff.  

      Day 3 was supposed to be the nice, relaxing, Crater Lake hike. My kinda stuff. Scenic hikes are my favorite. That's not exactly what ended up happening. So we look up the hike information and its 11 miles roundtrip, longest hike I've been on yet. Trent swore it wasn't long when he went as a kid so we all decide yeah fuck it lets go. I can handle 11 miles so I'm for it, I hike slow and steady anyways and enjoy all the seconds. Psych, I forgot I'm hiking with some pretty able-bodied people right now so the pace was pretty quick. Overall the scenery was gorgeous and hike totally worth it. Mountains and greenery always put me in a good place, as they should anyone. Nature is the best anti-depressant, if you let it be so. My feet didn't like it so much, had a few lingering blisters until about last week from that hike. 

      Day 4 sport climbing! We were all still pretty beat from the hike so we took it easy on the climbing today. This was my first time actually climbing outdoors and I'd say it was the perfect first time. No issues, great routes, and superb rock. Scary stuff though, I'd definitely say that rocks are very unforgiving. It wouldn't take much to get seriously injured climbing outside, but I guess thats the thrill of it. Especially reaching the top of a climb, seeing the end and looking down to make sure everything's good down below, and realizing the peril of where you're at. Easily had the hairs on my neck standing tall and prickly. The relief and feeling of accomplishment on the way down make it worth it, overcoming fear (big or small) is a wonderful thing. That's the stuff that makes great humans out of regular people. 

      Most of the rest of the trip felt like a big unwinding and calming down. Ate some food, made conversation, met family, took showers, etc. But I have to say some of my favorite moments of the trip were when nothing was happening. Sitting in the cabin reading a book, taking a nap on the porch in the hammock, sitting around the fireplace talking about whatever...little junctures like that were the most serene. When everything is just smooth and easy, no worries and no doubts. When you can do whatever you feel like doing whenever and it just feels right, no preconceptions or trials or woes; just whatever you want. I think its safe to say that might be my favorite thing about adventure and travel, you're actually free. 

Little phone pic on the hike to Crater Lake.

Little phone pic on the hike to Crater Lake.

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Get Psyched!

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Get Psyched!

A lot of the time I hear people saying they want to get in shape, but they just can’t get motivated to get off the couch, or no one is pushing them to get in shape. Most days when It’s a “Gym Day” for me (meaning my usual training days of Monday and Wednesday, not the days I just do regular climbing) I’m at work and i’m thinking about how tired I am and how nice it would be just to pick up some Chipotle and head home and watch some TV show. But around 5-6pm when my work day is wrapping up I roam around youtube and I do my favorite thing; watch climbing videos. Doesn’t even matter if they’re from this decade, all climbing vids are epic, they’re like an adrenaline burst for me. Somedays the only reason I even go to the gym is because I watched a sick climbing vid and I get amped up and I wanna go climb hard stuff, doesn’t even matter how tired I am, So I wanna start sharing some vids that get my blood pumping and get me Psyched to get in the gym, and hopefully get you psyched too!


This first one is Alex Honnold and Felipe Camargo climbing in Getu, China. This route is a stout 5.14b, 8 pitches with a lot of gravity checking, upside down, climbing. Super cool route, and I love me some Honnold. 


This Vid has Sasha DiGiulian and Eduard Martin climbing in Sardinia, Italy. Doing one of the hardest mutli-pitch climbs in the word (1,082ft, 7 pitches, and goes at 5.14). Super cool route in a beautiful place. Sasha looks super sweet, but she's a badass climber and kills on this route. 


I really enjoy watching free solo climbing, something about the slow precise movement is something I strive for in my climbing and try to emulate control on a climb as much as possible. This route in Yosemite is called "Separate Reality" and is a classic 5.12. The vid isn't that old but just shows how much the climbing culture has changed in such a short period of time. This one will get your hands sweating!

Hope these get you hyped like they do me!

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Jared Leto "Great Wide Open"

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Jared Leto "Great Wide Open"

Recently Jared Leto directed a sort of documentary on the adventurous lifestyle and I saw a little trailer for it on Renan Ozturk’s instagram page the other day. The project is called “Great Wide Open” and only two episodes out so far, I think it might be my favorite adventure doc i’ve seen. Initially I didn’t expect much from it, being from Jared Leto, and not an actual profession climber or major company, but it is amazing so far. It’s such a unique thing to see someone who you can identify with as a beginner climber and seeing all the fears, triumphs, and insights that you felt but in 3rd person and portrayed from a “Celebrity” but isn't acting or playing a role. All I can say is that I’m hooked and I’ll put the two vids below here with a link to Jared’s Youtube page and I can’t wait for the rest of the series!

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SunRiser Colorado Trip

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SunRiser Colorado Trip

Driving somewhere in New Mexico. 

Driving somewhere in New Mexico. 

The SunRiser crew went to Colorado last week! I had been planning this trip for a while so It was really nice to finally get out on the road. Chris and I left on Thursday (June 30th) at about 11pm and we arrived in Durango, Colorado, which is the town where we’d be doing most of our climbing/hiking near, at about 12pm. It was cloudy and semi rainy when we pulled up to the cabin and about 50 degrees which was INCREDIBLY nice compared to the 100+ temps we had just came from in Texas. We got settled in and Denis and Krista came back from town and we all talked about the drive and plans for the week. We decided for that night since it was raining and cloudy to just go check out the climbing gym in Durango. It was a super unique climbing gym, 3 stories, and they had some really amazing rope routes. 

Krista and Denis feelin' the altitude

Krista and Denis feelin' the altitude

Being from Texas, we were expecting the bouldering in the gym to be a lot softer than ours in the south..it was not, and the altitude made it very cardio intensive hahah. I hopped on a few V5s, they had a super awesome cave/roof climbing section that was awesome to climb in. I also hopped on a lot of rope routes which were more like outdoor climbing than anything i’ve felt in the south. 5.11s and 12s were super realist, tough, and technical climbs. Probably has something to do with the fact that the gym is about 15 min away from an actual rock climbing wall, where as in Dallas we have a 4 hour drive to some good rock. After, we headed back to the cabin, cook dinner and pass out for the night.

Saturday Morning we wake up and decide to go to “Sailing Hawks” Bouldering area in Durango. I’ve only bouldered at Hueco Tanks in Texas so I really didn’t know what to expect from bouldering in a different state. We start up a mild hike following the description of the “Warm Up Boulder” on The Mountain Project app. We would never find this “Warm Up Boulder” but the day would turn out to be just stumbling on one amazing boulder after another. Just great climbs, everything from V0 - V11 and the field just goes and goes and goes. 

We run into a guy we had seen at the gym the night before and he hung with us for a while and turned into our guide showing us a few cool boulders. 

He told us a little history of the area and that most the routes at Sailing Hawks were V1 - V3 and also that most of the routes were way harder than their grade since the guys who set the area up were some real hard climbers. 

The clouds started to roll in around 1pm so we packed up out crash pads and headed back down the hill to the truck. Ended up putting all the gear up and closing the doors right as the clouds started dumping rain. Content with our climbing for the day we headed into town and ate at a pizza place off Main Street in Durango. 

Back at the Cabin, Chris and I decided to hike to the small water fall down the hill and go explore a little bit up the mountain for a while. 

Sunday we woke up and decided to head to Crater lake near Silverton. Some back story on Crater Lake, My mother a friend and I went to “Crater Lake” when I was younger and I remember it being a short hike with a nice lake at the top that we swam in. So we set off on the drive to Crater Lake, and as we go Krista decides to google the hike before we get there. She says that it’s a 6 hour hike.. 11 miles total, which seems longer than I remember but I’m sure that I did Crater Lake as a kid, so we press on. We get to the trail head and set off on our journey at about 11am. The hike is absolutely gorgeous, I highly recommend it to anyone who has 6hrs to kill and a lot of endurance.

Waterfalls, streams, trees everywhere, amazing landscapes, words can’t even describe how beautiful it is. About half way up to the lake, none of the hike is jogging my memory of the hike as a kid, so I text my mom asking her if she remembers it being as long. Turns out my mother and I went to SPUD LAKE when I was a kid, which is only an hour hike and right next to the cabin that we’re staying at.. At this point I start laughing historically with Chris because the hike was way more than we had bargained for. We continued on to the lake and it was so worth it, it truly is spectacular in person.

We spend about 30 minutes at the top and then start the hike back down. Denis had decided to do the hike in Chacos, which turned out to not be the ideal shoe to do an 11 mile hike in, especially when it’s muddy. So as soon as we get the bottom of the mountain pretty much all of our crew strips our feet of their shoe oppressors and go barefoot on the walk back to the car 

Chris and Denis walking barefoot back to the truck.

Chris and Denis walking barefoot back to the truck.

Incredibly tired the group decided that we all deserved burgers after the 11 mile hike, so we headed to a burger joint in downtown Durango. Denis gets into a small war with the establishment over a missing milk shake which we end up “winning” leaving in hand with a $5 milkshake which was more milk than shake..leading to many inside jokes for the rest of the trip. We head back to the cabin, our legs dead, and our hearts full.

I wake up on Monday and find it very hard to put weight on my right leg, feeling a lot of pain right below my knee cap. Which puts a dampener on my morning, but regardless we head up into Durango to go do some rope climbing at Golf Wall. After a little trouble finding the parking for the wall, we head to the “Girl Scout” area which hosts the largest grouping of 5.9s and 10s. It’s a short 5 minute walk to the wall, where we picked the hardest possible scramble to get to up to the wall, later finding that there are stairs just 10 feet further. We get all the gear and ropes to the top and decide to start on the 5.10 kind of on the center left of the wall. It had a super cowboy start requiring a lot of upper body, which was not what I was expecting for our first route of the day, but got through the bottom half and the route opened up into this super nice climb. Every hold was pretty well chalked up so it was super easy to read the route. the Crux was a horizontal crack sequence which had you walk your body along the crack about a foot then grab a nice juggy horn about an arms length up. The wall we were on would prove to have kind of muscular hard bottom sections followed by kind of slabby, technical top sequences that made the routes super rewarding.

Got a good amount of climbs in and felt content with the day at about 1pm and decided since it was pretty warm outside to take our sweaty selves to Baker Bridge in Durango.

Panoramic from Bakers Bridge.

Panoramic from Bakers Bridge.

We got to Baker Bridge and I can remember going there as a kid and the water being extremely cold. This childhood memory definitely lived up to expectation as the water was reaaaally cold. However Krista felt the urge to jump off the famous Baker Bridge, which is about a 50 foot drop to the frigid river below.

She was braver than Denis, Chris and myself.. We only worked up the courage to get about waist deep in the water. The river was successful in cooling us all down, and helped my leg not hurt so bad. Since this would be the last day Denis and Krista would be in Durango, we headed back to the cabin to pack up their stuff before the firework show in town. 

We all met up in town at a little Bar & Restaurant with a good view of the show and sat back and watched the fireworks. Since I was a kid fireworks have always been a big part of the 4th of July for me. We used to go every year to Kansas City and be with my Aunt on the 4th. We’d have huge Firework shows and it’s made that day very special to me. I’m very glad I got to spend it with some of the best friends a guy could ask for.

The Show ended and Chris and I say goodbye to Denis and Krista and head back to the cabin. 

Tuesday Chris and I wake up and decide to head to the skate park in town. It’s a gorgeous, sunny day and just perfect for hanging out and skating. Sadly I had not brought any shoes to skate in, I only had boots and Chacos..So I became possibly the first Chaco skater of Durango. 

I got a lot of “How do you skate in those” throughout the day. We met a dude actually from Dallas at the park and chatted with him for a while. All of the people we met in Durango were incredibly nice, which worked out well for us since a lot of the time we were kind of just going with the flow. 

After skating, we headed up to my Grandparents house to take showers and rest for a bit. A fun fact about the Cabin that we were staying in is that most of appliances are powered thru propane and thus have “Pilot Lights”... Since I was born in a time where pilot lights are not common in houses, neither Chris nor myself had a clue what they were or the protocol of what to NOT do with them. Earlier in the day we had cleaned the entire cabin, and while cleaning we stumbled onto these little flames under the stove top. Being in a cleaning mood we decided that we didn’t need to use the stove anymore the rest of the trip. So we blew them out, which turned out to be a big no no. When you blow out these little flames underneath stove tops the gas keeps pumping through it, which will fill your cabin with gas, potentially becoming explosive if a spark or a flame occur. 

After telling my grandpa of what we had done, he informed us of how pilot lights work, and we hastily headed back to the cabin to open all the doors and windows. Luckily for us the cabin had not exploded when we returned and we promptly aired it out, avoiding a potentially awkward situation of having to explain to our family that the cabin that has been in the family since 1985 had exploded. 

The front of the Cabin.

The front of the Cabin.

We met up with my grandparents, Uncle, Aunt, and cousins at the best restaurant in Hesperus called “Kennebeck” and had an amazing dinner with the family. We said our goodbyes and hugged the family and headed back to the Cabin for our last night in Durango. Chris and I discovered some Vodka that Denis had left in the fridge and decided to indulge. The small amount we had hit us way harder than we expected and turned us into laughing fools in no time. A good way to end the trip (Thank you Denis). 

This trip was incredible, I couldn’t have asked for better people to live in a cell reception-less, dark, sometimes cold Cabin. It’s a trip I won’t forget any time soon!

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Why Do Anything?

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Why Do Anything?

Why do we do anything? Why do runners go for a run, even though it sucks. Why do DJ’s make music, even though it takes loads of time. Why do I rock climb, even though it hurts me, bruises me, breaks me, frustrates me, scares me, and intimidates me. I’ve had this thought in my head for a long time now, trying to figure out why anyone does anything. People don’t HAVE to do go running, there are certainly easier ways to get in shape. It’s much easier to just get plastic surgery than to actually stay healthy, just suck away all the extra fat you don’t want. Humans don’t even need to be strong or fit anymore, unless you work a physically demanding job. So why do people do anything?

    It’s a strange question but I recently started scratching the surface at the reason I do anything. More specifically rock climbing, as most these blogs are. I don’t know why but it’s so easy to talk about rock climbing. There’s just something about it that is just so unnecessary to a rational thinking person. We don’t NEED to climb things, we could just fly to the top of whatever we want.. We WANT to climb things. There’s just something about looking at a wall that seems impossible to everyone else, and you have the thought, “I wonder if it’s possible” and that’s all it takes.. The second the thought of possibility enters your mind the route is stuck in your head. 

    I’ve recently identified why I rock climb. I always hear from various different movies and professional climbers that rock climbing is a selfish act. And I never really understood that really. I understand that when you climb you’re the only one climbing usually, which makes it a solo act, and therefor a selfish one maybe. But I never got to the core of it. I rock climb because for those 30-60 seconds i’m on a short route, I don’t care about anything else in this entire world. People disappear, noise is ignored, and I engage into a hyper thought process that almost speeds time up for me. I’m not sure if it’s the same for everyone, but when I touch the wall I’m in the zone. I don’t come out of that zone until i’m off route, either by falling, or snapped out by lack of holds. I finally understand at least why rock climbing is a selfish act for me, in that selfishness is the non care for others, simply defined. And it’s the truth! People may argue “Well you care about the belayer.” To which I can respond, If you ever have to worry about your belayer.. you probably should be climbing with them. It’s really not fair to you if you can’t dive wholly into this void of concentration.     

    So I apologize if you feel as though i’m ignoring you, or acting too seriously on a route...But the truth of it is I don’t care.. I’m in the zone. Go find your zone.

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